NZ beer trip - Santa Monica and home

Tuesday 30 November (part 2), Santa Monica

On my second version of this day, fly into Los Angeles airport and stay at Santa Monica, the LA beach. It has a splendid pier (shrimps for lunch) and lovely boardwalks, along which we walk to Venice Beach. Then watch the stunning sunset with a pint of locally brewed Humboldt Brown Hemp Ale (their take on Newcastle Brown?). And then back into town for dinner and a half of Stone Smoked Porter. Both very impressive, need a US beer trip now. Score: Trip days 27 Beers drunk 41

Wednesday 1 December, Santa Monica

Explore near Beverly Hills (including the shop 'To Wag For') then to the airport while watch sun setting on the mountains, the Sierra Nevada, drink a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale - and a Monteith's Original, for old time's sake, as it were (sure I must have had that before?) Score: Trip days 28 Beers drunk 42

Thursday 2 December, Newcastle upon Tyne

We land at Heathrow, which is utter chaos, so give up and get train home through the snow. Lovely! Reach into beer stocks and come up with a bottle of Westerham Brewery William Wilberforce Freedom Ale - somehow this seems appropriate. Final score: Trip days 29 Beers drunk 43

Speight's Distinction was a real find, but my favourite was Monteith's Winter Ale - I was lucky to get one, as we hit a heatwave. Until next time, then, cheers!

NZ beer trip - Dunedin

Sunday 28 November, Dunedin

And so the great bike trip ends. It will indeed be, I think, unforgettable (for the right reasons!) And we are off to Dunedin, to get as far south as possible in the time allowed, and to take a photo of the tiles at the railway station. We wave goodbye to the rest of the group, who head back north, and catch the bus to Dunedin, a city on a slope. Find the Green Man Organic Brewery brewpub right in the centre, where I taste (but do not drink) the most hoppy beer I've ever met in my life - a true headbanger. My choices were their Strong (6.5% draught) and IPA (5.5% bottled, great label). Good beers but a bit too hoppy for me. All the beers have been good, has been amazing. Score: Trip days 24 Beers drunk 36

Monday 29 November, Dunedin

After breakfast in sunshine at St Clair, the surfing beach, and a walking tour of the sports venues, it is time to look round Speight's Brewery. A pleasure, with all that copper brewing kit. And a fitting end (nearly). Sipped half-halves of Speight's Gold and (very good) Porter at the brewery, then on to a bar for a Stoke Amber from McCashin's in Nelson. Score: Trip days 25 Beers drunk 39

Tuesday 30 November (part 1), Auckland

Fly back to Auckland, but no time to leave the airport - have a Speight's Old Dark as wait for the big plane to Los Angeles. This is the first time I've not managed to find a completely new beer - but, what the hell, at least I've seen where it's brewed. Indeed you could argue that because of the time zone change - crossing the dateline, we are going to get another Tuesday 30 November - I may not have failed at all! And so, goodbye to NZ. Score: Trip days 26 Beers drunk 39

NZ beer trip - rail trail and the great pass

Friday 26 November, Danseys Pass

After breakfast we set off on a roundabout route to attack the Southern Otago Rail Trail, starting just beyond Clyde and ending - for us today - at Wedderburn (not quite that far for me). Unlike most Brit trails, the surface is thick gravel, the end result feeling like riding uphill on Chesil Beach in a heatwave - went to a tin shack dunny and almost boiled myself! However, the night at Dansey's Pass, middle of nowhere, was great - a Monteith's Summer Ale (5%) did the trick, 'enlivening' as it says on the label. A good night had etc etc. Score: Trip days 22 Beers drunk 32

Saturday 27 November, Oamaru

One last great climb, over Dansey's Pass - pushed my way up and slithered down the gravelly hills, tho my dirt track riding technique has definitely improved. Then another two hills.... And finally Oamaru, back on the east coast, where we found a fine pub to enjoy draught ales, Harrington's Rogue Hop (a 5% pilsner) and Harrington's Clydesdale Stout. And then end-of-trip dinner, about which of course I remember very little. Score: Trip days 23 Beers drunk 34

NZ beer trip - cycling by boat

Wednesday 24 November, Te Anau

The bikes went with us for a boat trip across Lake Wakatipu, allowing us to start riding at distant Walter Peak Station. Off we went, uphill on gravel tracks (naturally) through wonderful scenery - blue skies, snowy mountains - fording rivers on the way, and ending up cycling through really remote country with huge grey peaks all around. Didn't want to stop. But we had to, in order to get to Te Anau before dusk. A quick beer stop at the superstore (thanks Michael), which had a great selection of NZ micro beers, meant a bottle of Tuatara IPA (5%) from their brewery in Reikorangi, and a Harrington's Big John Special Reserve (6.5%) from Christchurch. Cracking day! Score: Trip days 20 Beers drunk 29

Thursday 25 November, Te Anau

Off to Milford Sound by bus - bikes not allowed in through the amazing tunnel, which was rather more interesting than the Sound itself. Being processed with thousands of other tourists. Back to a walk along the lake and a beer in the local, where TV coverage of course still dominated by the Greymouth mine disaster (29 dead), which happened the day we drove through the town itself. Awful for all concerned. Then to lodgings to finish up the superstore beers, bottles of Three Boys Brewery IPA (5.2%), very hoppy, and their Wheat Beer (5%). Followed by a corker of a fish chowder to start off dinner (thanks Kate). Score: Trip days 21 Beers drunk 31

NZ beer trip - cycling in the south

Sunday 21 November, Wanaka

Got a lift up the Haast Pass, but then long ride ending up with ascent of the neck between lakes Wanaka and Hawea. Found yet another brewpub-type establishment, for a Wanaka Beerworks Tall Black (and their Gold is very good too), and a Monteith's Pilsner (5%). Score: Trip days 17 Beers drunk 25

Monday 22 November, Queenstown

Long long drag up a hill past gold mining shack at Cardrona, then more up to top of pass with amazing descent then down to river to watch bungy jumping. Then briefly to Arrowtown - more gold, but bit of a tourist hole albeit with excellent brewery - after tasting, tried Arrowtown Brewery IPA (8%! more a winter ale). Then had another Moa Weka lager at the Dux-de-Lux later in Queenstown. Quite a day. Score: Trip days 18 Beers drunk 26

Tuesday 23 November, Queenstown

A day off so we rode round the lake to the golf club on the hilltop - a lot tougher than it sounds, getting towards singletrack. Great views. To the Speight's Bar for a pint of their Pilsener. Score: Trip days 19 Beers drunk 27

NZ beer trip - cycling West Coast

Thursday 18 November, Punakaiki

Beer crisis! It turns out our motel is dry! This after a long hilly ride then ace descent in warm air to beach. So had quick pint of DB Export Lager in pub, walked back up hill carrying bottle of Monteith's Black, only to find our guides (well done Kate and Lofty) had got in some Budweisers. Barbecue, but indoors because of the dreaded sand flies. Scenery spectacular. Score: Trip days 14 Beers drunk 21

Friday 19 November, Fox Glacier

Longish flattish ride (good for me) to chilly Fox. Saw a Kiwi (in captivity, but there we go) in afternoon. Soon found yet another good pub, for a Monteith's Celtic Red. Score: Trip days 15 Beers drunk 22

Saturday 20 November, Haast

Haast was a revelation, reached after an almighty hill and an endless trudge into the wind (how come the wind was always against?!). Suddenly one crossed a bridge over a vast sunlit estuary, to a huge flat space surrounded by snow-capped mountains. So tired (and last, of course), I sunk into bar with pint of Speight's Distinction, just glorying in hills. Utterly fab, view and beer. Forgot to change for dinner.... Distinction bears some resemblance to London Pride, fruity, full bodied. A nice symmetry. Pride upside down? Also a Monteith's Old Ale on draught. Score: Trip days 16 Beers drunk 23

NZ beer trip - cycling north

Tuesday 16 November, Hanmer Springs

We meet the cycling group in Christchurch, where our guide leads us around a flat (=hilly) route to test us and the bikes before we make off to cycle near Hanmer Springs. Not being a hot pools type, I opt for the pub - Jollie Jack's Bar - and a bottle of Moa Weka. This in honour of our trip, the Weka cycling tour by Active New Zealand. The Moa Brewery is in Blenheim, which we passed on the train. Also a half of Speight's Old Dark Ale, a great South Island brew. Then a very good dinner with the group. Score: Trip days 12 Beers drunk 17

Wednesday 17 November, Murchison

We cycle over two mountain passes to gold mining town of Murchison, fording several rivers on the way. Barbecue under stars, after bottle of Paddy Sweeney's Good Bastards (4% dark ale), and a handle, a smaller measure than a pint, but bigger than a half, of the West Coast Brewery's Green Fern organic lager (5%), both ace. Brilliant pub-cum-restaurant. Great local beers. Score: Trip days 13 Beers drunk 19

NZ beer trip - South Island 1, Christchurch

Sunday 14 November, Christchurch

Up early yet again to get the ferry across to Picton (with me hiding in the caff), then train down the coast to Christchurch. Amazing the rail tracks have all been put back together after the recent earthquake. Hotel was close to the Twisted Hop Brewery, so made off there and sat down with a pint of their old black ale, Twisted Ankle (5.9%) - as I put the beer on the table, there was a big aftershock, the room and everything moved - turned out to have been a grade 5 shock, the real thing was 8 - phew. This beer is strong stuff...... Score: Trip days 10 Beers drunk 14

Monday 15 November, Christchurch

After a walk in the hills, off to another brewpub, the famed Dux-de-Lux for dinner and a pint of Nor'Wester, their excellent old English ale (6.5%). The cycling starts tomorrow! Score: Trip days 11 Beers drunk 15

NZ beer trip - North Island

Wednesday 10th November, Auckland

Began with a bit of a disappointment - had arranged to meet at Mac's Northern Steamship brewbar on the quayside for our first New Zeadlandish pint, when we arrived were turned away by a couple of heavies who jeered that the bar was shut for a private party, a load of accountants! This place does resemble the City of London (as we found, it is not like anywhere else in NZ, tho they do seem to enjoy their private parties here). Anyway, explored elsewhere in Auckland to find (from S Island) a fab Monteith's Black - I am a fan of these dark beers - and a Tui. Score: Trip days 6 Beers drunk 9

Thursday 11 November, National Park

Up first thing to take the Overlander train down to National Park, next to the volcanoes (Lord of the Rings country - like everywhere here!) for a couple of days. Great place to stay, had a Mac Black (at last!) in our log cabin-like hotel, then a tremendous Monteith's Winter Ale (6.00%, the beer of the trip) at the excellent station restaurant. Score: Trip days 7 Beers drunk 11

Friday 12 November, National Park

Walked in Tongariro National Park today, between the volcanoes - not the great crossing walk, but still ace for views (and probably Hobbits....). Earned my beers, another Mac Black, and a Mac White, a wheat beer. Score: Trip days 8 Beers drunk 12

Saturday 13 November, Wellington

Back on the Overlander, heading for Wellington where we arrived early evening and headed to quayside, lovely fish restaurant where I drank yet another Mac Black and a Monteith's Golden Lager. Shame not to be here longer. Score: Trip days 9 Beers drunk 13

NZ beer trip - Hong Kong

Monday 8th November, Hong Kong

Hong Kong, or rather Kowloon - across the water from HK Island, and thus giving us a splendid view of the high-rise blocks - is totally new to me, and so was my first beer, Blue Girl lager. This is a bottled 5% lager, imported from Germany into HK since 1906 by Jebsen & Co. So nice I had a couple. Score: Trip days 4 Beers drunk 5

Tuesday 9th November, Hong Kong

Off to the airport, but time for a Tsingtao and an Asahi Dry before taking off for Auckland. Both 5%, not up to Blue Girl standards! Score: Trip days 5 Beers drunk 7

New Zealand beer trip 2010

Had to leave Razzle behind - in fact he loves his kennels at Home from Home in Heddon - when we went to New Zealand for nearly a month in November-December 2010. Beforehand, I was told their microbreweries were fantastic, and found out that was absolutely right. Here's my drinking diary of the trip.

Friday 5th November, London
Have to start somewhere, and as I've a conference in London tomorrow and we're not flying until Sunday evening, my first beer of the trip will be a local London brew. A pint of Fuller's ESB, enjoyed in the pub opposite the British Library. Score: Trip days 1 Beers drunk 1

Saturday 6th November, London

After the excellent Ecclesiology and Empire symposium (a word which apparently also means a drinking party) organised by the Victorian Society, it was off to St Pancras and the Betjeman Arms for a pint of Adnams Bitter (the first beer I ever tasted) and a swift half of Sharp's Betjeman Bitter. The latter was a fine drink, and it seems is actually their Cornish Coaster in London disguise. Score: Trip days 2 Beers drunk 3

Sunday 7th November, London

Evening at Heathrow, and time for a pint of - what else - but Fuller's London Pride before taking off for Hong Kong. Score: Trip days 3 Beers drunk 4